Our Complete Guide to Jewelry Chain Types

Every jewelry chain is a row of metal links, and the shape of those links is what gives a cable chain, a curb chain, or a paperclip chain its name. Link shape also decides how the chain lies on your skin and how it catches light; width and construction decide the weight. This guide walks through the chain types we carry, from fine everyday styles to bold statement links, with the widths and lengths that make each one work.

Also be sure to check out our guide to men’s jewelry trends, covering Cuban and curb chains, bracelets, and rings. And browse our chain collection or our chain bracelets.

Key Takeaways

• Cable, box, and wheat chains are the everyday styles that carry a pendant; curb, Cuban, and Figaro chains are wider links worn on their own.
• Width in millimeters and solid versus semi-solid construction change the weight, the price, and how a chain wears more than the link name does.
• Hang a pendant from a strong simple link, layer chains of different lengths, and go wide for a men’s chain.

Everyday Chain Types: Cable, Box, and Wheat Chains

These are the fine chains you wear daily and hang a pendant from. Their links are simple, so they lie flat and put the attention on whatever hangs from them.

Cable chain

A cable chain is uniform round or oval links in a line, the shape of a ship’s anchor chain scaled down to a millimeter. It is simple, durable, and flexible, and it works on its own or as the base for a pendant (Jewelers Mutual).

Box chain

A box chain is built from flat plates folded into small squares that interlock into a smooth cylinder. The squared links give it a crisp, even line and excellent strength.

Wheat chain

A wheat chain, also called a spiga chain from the Italian word for wheat, is four strands of V-shaped links braided into the texture of a wheat stalk. The braid keeps it from twisting, so a pendant hangs straight, and the woven surface picks up more light than a cable chain.

Each of these everyday chains is 14k gold with a lobster clasp: a white gold cable, a yellow gold box, and a yellow gold wheat.

14k White Gold 30″ Adjustable Cable Chain Necklace

• 14k white gold, rhodium plated
• 1.1 mm cable links, adjustable up to 30 inches
• Lobster clasp

14k Yellow Gold 22″ Adjustable Box Chain Necklace

• 14k yellow gold
• 0.94 mm box links, adjustable up to 22 inches
• Lobster clasp

14k Yellow Gold 18″ Wheat Chain Necklace

• 14k yellow gold
• 1.0 mm braided wheat links, 18 inches
• Lobster clasp

Bold Chain Types: Curb, Cuban, and Figaro Chains

These chains are the jewelry, worn without a pendant.

Curb chain

A curb chain has links that are twisted and flattened so the whole chain lies flat, each link polished to a mirror finish. It is the classic men’s chain, and in a slim width it is just as easy to wear for women. Browse the full range in our Cuban and curb link jewelry.

Cuban chain

A Cuban link is a curb chain with rounder, more tightly packed links that flow into one smooth line. The Miami Cuban in our collection keeps the rounded edges and is the statement version.

Figaro chain

A Figaro chain repeats a pattern of short links followed by one long link, so it has more rhythm than a curb chain at the same width. The diamond-cut Figaro Milano we carry adds faceted edges that flash as it moves.

Here is one of each in 14k yellow gold: a curb chain, a Miami Cuban, and a Figaro Milano.

14k Yellow Gold 22″ Curb Chain Necklace

• 14k yellow gold
• 4.7 mm curb links, 22 inches
• Lobster clasp

14k Yellow Gold 22″ Miami Cuban Chain Necklace

• 14k yellow gold
• 3.2 mm Miami Cuban links, 22 inches
• Polished finish

14k Yellow Gold 24 inch 4 mm Figaro Milano Chain

• 14k yellow gold
• 4 mm diamond-cut Figaro Milano links, 24 inches
• Lobster clasp

Modern Chain Types: Paperclip, Herringbone, and Snake Chains

These three are the chains behind layered looks, and layering is how we see guests make a stack their own: one paperclip, one herringbone, one fine cable at different lengths.

Paperclip chain

A paperclip chain is a row of long, open oval links shaped like the office paperclip it is named for. The open links show skin through them, which keeps a wide chain light on the neck, and a small charm clips straight onto a link. See everything in our paperclip jewelry.

Herringbone chain

A herringbone chain is rows of flat V-shaped links laid in a chevron pattern and made from flat sheets of gold, so it wears like a liquid ribbon of metal against the collarbone.

Snake chain

A snake chain is a flexible tube of tightly joined, slightly curved plates with the texture of snakeskin. There are no open loops, so nothing snags, and a smooth slider pendant glides on it.

All three modern chains here are 14k yellow gold: a paperclip, a herringbone, and a snake.

14k Yellow Gold 18″ Paperclip Chain Necklace

• 14k yellow gold
• 2.5 mm paperclip links, 18 inches
• Lobster clasp

14k Yellow Gold 16″ Herringbone Chain Necklace

• 14k yellow gold
• 4.6 mm flat herringbone weave, 16 inches
• Lobster clasp

14k Yellow Gold 18 Inch 2.1 mm Snake Chain

• 14k yellow gold
• 2.1 mm smooth snake chain, 18 inches
• Lobster clasp

How to Choose a Gold Chain

Pick the metal first, then the construction, then the width, then the length. Four decisions cover it.

• Pick the karat and the color. Our chain collection is 14k gold, with 10k options in the men’s line. Choose yellow gold chains for warmth and white gold chains for a cool, bright tone. White gold is rhodium plated for that bright finish.
• Decide between solid and semi-solid. Solid links are gold all the way through, so the chain is heavier and priced higher. Semi-solid links have a hollow core, which gives you a wide look at a lighter weight and a lower price.
• Match the width to the job. Hang a pendant from a chain around 1 mm. Wear 3 to 5 mm on its own. Go 6 mm and up when the chain is the statement. A heavy pendant belongs on a cable, box, or curb link; a snake or herringbone takes a smooth slider, not a drop.
• Choose the length. A 16-inch chain sits at the collarbone, 18 inches falls just below it, 20 to 22 inches reaches the top of the chest, and 24 inches drops lower for layering. Our guide to layering necklaces of different lengths and weights shows how to build a stack.

Types of Chains for Men

Men’s chains are the same link families in wider, heavier builds: curb and Cuban links, then rope and anchor links, in 10k and 14k yellow and white gold. Our guide to men’s jewelry trends covers Cuban and curb chains, bracelets and layering, and rings, and the full assortment is in men’s chains.

Here are some semi-solid men’s chains in 14k gold: a Cuban chain, a curb chain, and a rope chain.

14k Yellow Gold 24 inch 7.3 mm Semi-Solid Cuban Chain

• 14k yellow gold, semi-solid
• 7.3 mm Cuban links, 24 inches
• Lobster clasp

14k White Gold 22 Inch 6 mm Semi-Solid Curb Chain

• 14k white gold, rhodium plated, semi-solid
• 6 mm curb links, 22 inches
• Lobster clasp

14k Yellow Gold 24 Inch 7 mm Semi Solid Rope Chain

• 14k yellow gold, semi-solid
• 7 mm twisted rope links, 24 inches
• Lobster clasp

Chain Bracelets: Rope, Paperclip, and Mariner Links

The same links work on the wrist, at 7 to 8 inches instead of 16 to 24. A rope bracelet is small links woven into a twisted cord, among the strongest chain styles. A paperclip bracelet brings the open oval link to the wrist. A mariner bracelet is an oval link with a bar across the middle. Our post on mixing metals in bracelet and necklace stacks shows how to combine metals in one stack. Shop all chain bracelets.

These bracelets are 14k yellow gold with lobster clasps: a rope, a paperclip, and a mariner.

14k Yellow Gold 8″ Rope Chain Bracelet

• 14k yellow gold
• 3.7 mm silk rope links, 8 inches
• Lobster clasp

14k Yellow Gold 7.25″ Paperclip Link Chain Bracelet

• 14k yellow gold
• 2.5 mm paperclip links, 7.25 inches
• Lobster clasp

14k Yellow Gold 7.25 Inch 2.3 mm Mariner Bracelet

• 14k yellow gold
• 2.3 mm mariner links, 7.25 inches
• Lobster clasp

How to Care for a Gold Chain

A gold chain lasts for decades with four habits.

• Store it flat or hung, on its own. Tangling is how fine chains kink, and a herringbone bends permanently if folded. Give each chain its own pouch or hook.
• Put it on last and take it off first. Perfume, hairspray, and lotion dull the polish, and a clasp caught in a sweater is a common way chains break.
• Wash it gently at home. Warm water, a drop of mild dish soap, a soft brush, and a lint-free cloth restore the shine.
• Check the clasp and the jump rings. Look at the clasp spring and the small rings at each end a few times a year. Our master jeweler offers a free annual cleaning and inspection.

The Robbins Brothers Difference

We have been a neighborhood jeweler for more than a century, and every chain we sell lists its karat, width, and length on the product page. At any of our showrooms, our jewelry consultants will lay a cable, a curb, and a paperclip side by side on your collar, and our master jeweler is in-house for sizing and repairs.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the different chain types?

The chain types we carry fall into three groups. Fine everyday chains are cable, box, and wheat. Bold flat-link chains are curb, Cuban, and Figaro. Modern silhouettes are paperclip, herringbone, and snake, with rope and mariner links on bracelets. A tennis chain is a continuous line of set stones rather than metal links; see our guide to wearing tennis necklaces and bracelets and our tennis necklaces.

What are different types of chains called?

Chains are named for their links: cable (round links), curb (flat twisted links), Cuban (rounded curb links), Figaro (short-short-long pattern), box (square links), rope (twisted braid), wheat or spiga (four-strand braid), paperclip (long open ovals), herringbone (flat chevrons), snake (curved plates), and mariner or anchor (oval links with a center bar).

Which type of gold chain is best?

A 14k cable, box, or curb chain is the best all-round gold chain: closed links, easy to wear daily, and strong enough to carry a pendant. Pick semi-solid if you want a wide chain that stays light. The four steps above walk through karat, construction, width, and length.

What is the strongest type of chain for everyday wear?

Rope is one of the strongest chain styles, and cable, box, and curb links hold up to daily wear. Herringbone must be stored flat because a hard bend kinks it, so save it for lighter wear.

What is the best chain for a pendant?

Hang a pendant from a cable, box, or wheat chain, whose closed links keep it centered. A small charm can ride a paperclip link. Pair any chain with a piece from our necklaces and pendants.

What are the best types of chains for men?

Curb and Cuban links in 6 to 7 mm are the core of our men’s chains, with rope and anchor links for texture. Try the width on before you decide; a 7 mm semi-solid chain wears very differently from a 4 mm solid one.

What types of gold chains work for a cross pendant?

A cable, box, or wheat chain in 14k gold is the classic pairing for a cross pendant because it holds the cross centered without competing with it. Our cross jewelry guide to necklaces and chains covers choosing and styling the cross itself.

Do I need an appointment to shop for chains?

Walk-ins are always welcome, but we recommend booking a personalized consultation so you have dedicated time with one of our jewelry experts to try chain widths and lengths on. Book at robbinsbrothers.com/appointment.

Or find a Robbins Brothers near you to try chain widths and lengths on in person.