All About Princess Cut Diamonds for Engagement Rings

A princess cut is a square diamond with sharp corners and a brilliant facet structure, essentially the fire of a round brilliant packed into a squared outline. That combination is the whole appeal: it reads modern without giving up sparkle, which is a rarer pairing than it sounds.

This guide covers what the shape actually is, how to set it, and how it stacks up against the other shapes people usually weigh against it.

What Is a Princess Cut Diamond

A princess cut is squared, with pointed corners and a faceting pattern engineered for brilliance. The chevron facets underneath are what create the lively play of light: a two-chevron pattern reads bolder and whiter, while a four-chevron pattern adds more scintillation. Because of that structure, a princess cut can appear brighter than a step-cut shape, where the facets are long and open rather than densely arranged.

The squared outline also uses the rough stone efficiently, which is part of why the shape has stayed popular. More of the original crystal survives the cutting than with a rounded shape, and that shows up in what you get for a given weight.

Choosing a Setting for a Princess Cut

Princess cuts are versatile. They stand alone well as a solitaire, and they take just as well to sidestones or a halo. Because the shape has four pointed corners, the setting has one job above all others, which is to guard those tips with a prong sitting squarely over each one.

If you prefer a clean single-stone look, our guide to solitaire engagement rings is a good next read. You can also start from the stone instead: browse loose diamonds and build the setting around the one you choose.

The group below runs from a finished ring through to mountings you complete with your own stone, so the difference between buying a ring and building one is easy to see.

Eternalle 14K White Gold Lab-Grown Diamond Engagement Ring

• 14K white gold from Eternalle, 2.4 mm shank, rhodium plated
• Princess cut lab-grown center stone, prong set
• 2 1/2 ct. tw. total, VS2 clarity and H color center minimums

Michael M. 18K White Gold Natural Diamond Engagement Ring Setting

• 18K white gold from Michael M., 3.1 mm shank, polished
• Shaped to hold a princess cut, center stone sold separately
• 7/8 ct. tw. of side diamonds, VS2 clarity and G color minimums

RB Signature 14K White Gold Natural Diamond Engagement Ring Setting

• 14K white gold from RB Signature, 2.3 mm shank, polished
• Vintage design style, shaped to hold a princess cut
• 3/8 ct. tw. of side diamonds, center stone sold separately

Princess Cut vs. Other Diamond Shapes

The easiest way to understand a princess cut is by comparison. Beside a round brilliant it keeps most of the fire but trades soft curves for crisp corners. Beside an emerald cut, which uses long step facets for a subtle hall-of-mirrors effect, it simply sparkles more. And if you like a squared shape with the corners softened, the radiant cut is worth reading next.

Seeing the same shape at different weights is usually more useful than seeing different shapes at the same weight, because carat weight changes the outline less on a princess than it does on an elongated stone.

Poem 14K White Gold Natural Diamond Engagement Ring

• 14K white gold from Poem, 2.1 mm shank, rhodium plated
• Vintage design style, princess cut center, prong set
• 3/4 ct. tw. total

Poem 14K White Gold Natural Diamond Engagement Ring

• 14K white gold from Poem, 1.5 mm shank, polished
• Princess cut center stone, prong set
• 1 ct. tw. total

Poem 14K White Gold Natural Diamond Engagement Ring

• 14K white gold from Poem, 2.1 mm shank, polished
• Princess cut center stone, prong set
• 1 1/2 ct. tw. total

The Robbins Brothers Difference

A princess cut is easy to photograph and hard to judge from a photograph. The chevron pattern that decides how the stone behaves sits underneath, and corner protection is something you assess with the ring on a hand rather than on a screen. We keep a range on hand so the comparison can be made properly, and our diamond experts will tell you what they are seeing rather than talk around it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a princess cut diamond?

It is a square diamond with pointed corners and a brilliant faceting pattern, so you get the sparkle of a round brilliant in a modern squared shape. Stop by any of our showrooms across California, Arizona, Texas, and Washington to see one under the lights.

Do princess cut diamonds sparkle?

They do, and the reason is structural. The chevron facets underneath are arranged to bounce light back through the top of the stone, which is why a princess cut can read brighter than a step-cut shape of the same weight. If sparkle is the priority, this is the shape to put beside a round brilliant.

How does a princess cut compare to a round or emerald cut?

It sits between them. A princess keeps most of a round brilliant’s fire but squares off the outline, and next to an emerald cut it sparkles considerably more, because an emerald cut is built for broad flashes rather than rapid ones.

What setting protects a princess cut best?

Prongs positioned squarely over each corner. The corners are where the stone is thinnest, and a prong that sits back along the edge leaves the tip exposed. This matters more on a princess than on a rounded shape, and it is worth checking with the ring on your hand.

Can the corners of a princess cut chip?

They are the most vulnerable part of the stone, which is why corner prongs exist. A well-built setting makes this a non-issue for everyday wear. If you work with your hands, mention it to us and we will steer you toward the more protective mountings.

Should I choose a lab-grown or natural princess cut diamond?

Both are real diamonds with identical sparkle, and the choice comes down to budget and preference. A lab-grown stone generally lets you reach a larger or cleaner princess for the same outlay. We carry both and can set them side by side.

Can you create a custom princess cut engagement ring?

Yes. Our master jeweler can design a one-of-a-kind ring around the princess cut you choose. Bring your ideas to an appointment and we will work them into a finished design.

Do I need an appointment to shop?

Walk-ins are always welcome. Booking ahead means a diamond expert is set aside for you, which is worth doing if you want to compare several stones in one visit.

For more inspiration:

• Timeless classic solitaire engagement rings
• All about emerald cut diamonds
• All about radiant cut diamonds

Ready to see princess cut diamonds in person? Find a Robbins Brothers near you and let us help you find the one.